I’ve never been happy with homemade pizza dough, or really, with homemade pizza for that matter. I mean, we’ve had good ones, but great ones? Not really. What we get at Dopo, for example, is just so much better! I really think it has more to do with the ovens we use at home. Even with a pizza stone, it’s really hard to duplicate the hot deck-oven that you’d use in a restaurant. Plus, the fact that my oven is janky and old probably doesn’t help! But I just can’t give it up, so here’s another try. This time I used Judy’s recipe that she learned years ago in New York. I know her recipe works in the restaurant, so we’ll see if it works at home.
Now, I didn’t follow the recipe exactly because of a few things. First, I didn’t have the right sized pan to put the dough balls in so that they were spaced 3 inches apart, so I put them on a rimmed cookie sheet instead, which is what they do at Dopo. Also, It was a cold, rainy day when I made the recipe, so the water I used was slightly warmer than what is called for. That being said, I may have needed to add a bit more flour because my dough turned out a bit sticky. I know that weather conditions play a not-insignificant roll in baking. Also, I know that we do, sometimes use dough-balls that are only 24 hours aged, rather than the preferred 48, at Zuni, and since this is my plan for dinner tomorrow night, the dough-balls will have only aged for about 36 hours.
Judy’s Pizza Dough recipe (with a few of my own variations due to equipment availability, etc)
yields 5 five-ounce dough balls
- 1 teaspoon freeze-dried yeast
- 1-1/4 cups water between 65-70 degrees
- a pinch of sugar (optional)
- 15 ounces bread flour, plus another scant cup to dust the dough before baking
- 2-1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
- 1 Tablespoon mild tasting olive oil, to rub on the finished dough balls
Lightly oil a rimmed cookie sheet, and set aside. Combine the yeast and 1 Tablespoon of the water in a large mixing bowl and whisk to dissolve. Leave it until it begins to bubble. You can add a pinch of sugar to speed things up. Add the remaining water, then stir in about one cup of the flour to make a wet batter. It will look like a lumpy pancake batter. Combine the salt with the remaining flour. Add half of that to the wet batter and stir vigorously for a few minutes. You should have a soft, sticky dough. Now work in all but about one quarter cup of the remaining flour-salt mixture, then scrape the shaggy, stiff dough on to the counter. Tip the remaining flour on the counter and work it in, lifting and slapping the dough on the counter to activate the gluten. Once the flour is incorporated, knead until the dough is uniform but well shy of the “smooth, shiny ball” stage, about three minutes. The dough will be soft, and, if you slap a clean, dry hand to it and count to five, your hand will stick.
Tip the dough onto a clean, dry work surface and let it rest for a few minutes. Cut into 5 one-ounce chunks. Shape each chunk into a rough ball, then, using one hand to cradle the soft dough from above, gently roll and shimmy the dough ball in place to tighten and set the round shape. The underside of the dough ball will look like it has a belly button. Lightly rub each dough ball with olive oil so it won’t form a crust, then place belly-button-sideways on the cookie sheet. Space the dough balls at least three inches apart. Wrap the sheet tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 48 hours.
So this is what I’ve got so far.
We’ll see how they turn out tomorrow night. By the way, what’ll I top them with? Well, I’ve got a lot of asparagus in the fridge. Some Asiago. Spring onions. Mmmm, maybe some braised artichokes? And I’ve got to use up some of that arugula I harvested from the garden. I guess we’ll be eating a few different pizzas for dinner tomorrow night!
The dough did seem almost over-proofed by the time we went to use it, after 36 hours. I had used slightly warmer water than the recipe called for, so perhaps I’ll stick to the recipe next time. Also, it’s possible that my refrigerator is warmer than is ideal.
In the end, I turned my oven all the way to the broil setting, which turned out to be 600 degrees, according to my oven thermometer, and I preheated it at that temperature for 45 minutes with my pizza stone on the very top shelf. I don’t think I stretched my first pizza thin enough, and it took longer to cook, never really getting golden.
The next pizza, we stretched thinner, brushed extra-virgin olive oil on it, and then topped it and baked it. It got more golden, and cooked more quickly, making the dough less crackery and tough. It was definitely the best homemade pizza we’ve made. The dough itself was really tasty too.
Still, neither were even close to the quality of a restaurant-made thin-crust pizza, but these were the best ones that we’ve made at home!